Snakes possess reptilian characteristics: they have scales; are ectothermic (they rely on external sources to control their body temperature); and, like most reptiles, lay eggs. Rattlesnakes, however, give birth in autumn to five to 12 live young, each 1 to 2 feet long. Contrary to their reputation of being slimy, snake scales actually are smooth and dry. Snakes often shed their skin more than once each year to accommodate their growing bodies.
Since snakes are ectothermic, they must avoid extremes in temperatures and hunt preferably during mild conditions. Their forked tongues and heat-sensitive facial pits are used to determine what exists in their environment and to acquire prey. It is important to remember that a dead rattlesnake, even if it has been decapitated, is still capable of biting (not striking) and injecting poison. The snake’s heat sensory pits are active until rigor mortis sets in and will trigger a biting response if a warm object, such as a hand, is placed near the snake’s mouth. Most snakes prey predominately on rodents, although some also eat bird eggs, nestlings and insects.
Problems
Snakes need cool, damp shelters and may take residence under and possibly inside buildings. This behavior may become more noticeable in the fall, when snakes seek areas to hibernate for the winter. Non-poisonous snakes do not pose any major problems for humans besides fear and sometimes being pests. Poisonous snakes, however, may cause a health hazard by biting people, pets and livestock.
Prevention
There are four methods to discourage snakes from moving into a yard or home:
1. Eliminate cool, damp areas where snakes hide; clean up brush piles, keep shrubbery away from foundations and cut high grass.
2. Control insect and rodent populations (the snake’s primary food source) to force them to seek areas with a larger food supply. Put grains in tightly sealed containers, clean up residual pet food, cut grass short and clean up debris.
3. In rattlesnake-infested areas, construct a snakeproof fence around the backyard or play area. Use galvanized hardware cloth with a 1/4-inch mesh and a height of 36 inches and bury 6 inches deep, slant outward at a 30-degree angle. Make certain the gate fits tightly and swings into the play area. Keep all vegetation away from the fence to prevent snakes from climbing over it.
4. To prevent snakes from entering basements and crawl spaces, seal all openings 1/4-inch or larger with mortar, caulking compound, or 1/8-inch hardware cloth. Check for holes or cracks around doors, windows, water pipes, electrical lines, etc.
Removal
Snakes may seek shelter in basements, sheds or crawl spaces in cold weather. If it becomes necessary to remove a snake, several humane methods are available.
1. A good way to remove a non-poisonous snake is to sweep it into a large bucket with a broom and then release it outdoors.
2. Damp burlap sacks covered with dry sacks to retain moisture are attractive denning sites when placed along a wall in a basement or crawl space. Check the bags daily and remove with a shovel.
Be Prepared
The best safety measure against poisonous snakes is to be prepared for a possible encounter with them, especially if hiking in their habitat. Be able to recognize the poisonous snakes in the area by studying a field guide of reptiles or visiting a zoo.
In areas inhabited by rattlesnakes, wear long loose pants and calf high leather boots or preferably snake guards. Rattlesnakes generally are nonaggressive toward humans unless they are startled, cornered or stepped on. Alert them of your approach by sweeping grassy areas with a long stick before entering. Never jump over logs, turn over rocks, or sit down carelessly. Always look carefully where you place your hands, feet or body. Remember, rattlesnakes do not always shake their rattles before striking, so do not rely only on your sense of hearing. If you are confronted with a rattlesnake, remain calm and try to back away slowly and carefully.
Bites
If you are bitten by a rattlesnake, remain as calm as possible because panic may actually trigger adverse physical reactions. Do not try to kill the snake. It may lead to additional bites and delay your arrival at the hospital for professional treatment. Since there is a single antivenim available for use against all pit vipers in the United States, there is no need to determine the species of snake.
Immediately after being bitten, check the injured area. If it is a poisonous snake bite, there may be one or two visible fang marks in addition to teeth marks. The common and fairly quick reactions to envenomation are swelling and pain in the bitten area followed by a black and blue discoloration of the tissue and possibly nausea. Painful swelling of lymph nodes in the groin usually occurs within 1 hour if the bite is on the foot or leg.
The most useful snakebite first aid kit consists of car keys and coins for calling the hospital. If bitten, remain calm and get to a hospital. Call ahead to the hospital so that the emergency room and physician can prepare for arrival of the patient. If possible, have another person drive the victim to the hospital. Remove anything from the body that may cause restriction (ring, shoes, watches, etc.) before the swelling begins. Although some disagreement exists among physicians, tourniquets, incision and suction, or treatment with ice usually are not recommended. All of these methods tend to increase tissue damage.